Hoppa Hilo Haole

Volcanoes National Park On Our Sunny Day Visit in 2006

Whales frolicking off the port side welcomed Grand Princess to Hilo, just as our port lecturer had predicted, so we enjoyed a natural show with our delicious buffet breakfast.

It had been overcast much of our Pacific crossing, bringing the wind chill factor on the Lido Deck to the low 60's, or as Al Gore might call it, catastrophic global cooling caused by passengers on a cruise ship exhaling CO2 over the deep blue sea.   Considering the port presentation touting whales off the port side cruising into Hilo had been repeated regularly on TV and the weather had kept many indoors, I was surprised that so few people apparently got the word.

In any case, as passengers gradually awakened from four days of hibernation (although unlike bears, cruise passengers don't miss any meals and do enjoy great entertainment), everyone seemed to be excited to arrive in Hawaii. 

Julie Hopping On

The prior evening, our Anytime Dining table mates, a military couple from Virginia, had gushed excitedly about their planned helicopter tour over waterfalls and Volcanoes National Park.

We blushingly acknowledged we would be taking the cheap and easy Hoppa-On, Hoppa-Off Bus that stops at several sites, including Rainbow Falls, Liliukalani Gardens and, most importantly, Richardson Ocean Park, a volcanic-rock snorkeling spot.

For anyone visiting Hilo for the first time, a more extensive tour including Volcanoes National Park, which is certainly the most unique attraction of the island, or renting a car to do a self-guided tour there plus some of the great water falls and jungles, would be better ways to go.  We, however, had been dreaming of snorkeling for months, and while not the express route, the bus would serve our purposes nicely.

Rainbow Falls

Once ashore and on the bus, we made a mandatory stop at Rainbow Falls to check out the lush parklands and waterfall, but we passed on downtown Hilo, the flea market and the Japanese gardens on our first lap around so that we could get to the snorkel spot.

Not believing the temperature could possibly be much lower than Hawaii's average of 75 to 85 degrees, I had ignored Julie's advice to wear a jacket. Fortunately, she had an emergency windbreaker in the backpack along with our masks and snorkels, because when we arrived at the black-rock beach, the temperature was still in the 60s. 

River Below Rainbow Falls

Nonetheless, we had come a long way to snorkel, so I spit on my mask and waded in.  The water seemed to be warmer than the air.  Lots of beautiful fish put on a colorful display, but after about thirty minutes, I was becoming chilled.  Just as I headed toward shore to let Julie take her turn, a five-foot long green turtle came up to say, "Cowabunga, Shredhead!

Actually, he didn't say anything, possibly because he wasn't a teenager who had encountered radioactive slime, but he silently invited me to follow him around to see some more fish. 

How could I turn down a wise old turtle?

I followed the huge turtle for another ten minutes, until he made a bee line out toward the surf, and I swam in to tell Julie everything she had missed.  In case you're wondering, we usually snorkel separately, so one person can stay on shore and watch our valuables.

Richardson Ocean Park

Julie decided to use my rash guard along with the mask and snorkel to avoid getting any more stuff wet than necessary, so I was happy to don that crinkled windbreaker while I responded to cruise questions on my smart phone.  Several other tourists came by and asked me about the snorkeling, but no one else went in the water to explore that fascinating undersea world.

Julie enjoyed equally great snorkeling, and the turtle came back to visit her, too, but with the sky threatening to encore some earlier light rain, we decided to head back to the ship for lunch.

2003

When the bus didn't come after 20 minutes, we phoned the tour company, and the manager came over in his van to take us back to the ship.  We gave him a nice tip for the free private shuttle.

We found lots of other passengers onboard the ship.  Some, like the military couple, had their helicopter excursions cancelled due to poor visibility and simply gave up.  Others had walked off and then returned to the ship when nothing immediately grabbed their attention.

Japanese gardens near Kamehameha's favorite surf spot

No matter where you go, it is up to you to BE THERE.  If your plans flop, don't flip off or out.  Be cool with spontaneity, and discover serendipity.

Julie and I weren't through with Hilo yet, so we called the bus company to check the schedule.  The same driver returned in his private van to pick us up. It pays to tip.

Statue of Kamehameha the Great

We headed back to see more of Hilo, including the statue of King Kamehameha, who conquered and united the Hawaiian Islands. 

Kamehameha the Great loved to surf, as did other royal family members and athletes.

Hilo's overhead waves were epic in Kamehameha's time, but catastrophic tsunamis brought the twentieth century solution of sheltering the coast with a breakwall, which dissipates the energy of waves.

On the day of our visit, waves were virtually nonexistent on Kamehameha's favorite beach.

Wes Gets Zenlike (or at least has Buddha belly) at Liliukalani Gardens

Wailoa Park, where Kamehameha stands, replaced a Japanese fishing village, Shinmachi, which had been repeatedly devastated by tusnamis.  The open space of a park is certainly a better urban planning choice than densely packed buildings for that flood zone, and it's a lovely place to visit.


The tranquil Liliukalani Park and Gardens nearby with its Japanese architecture and manicured grounds pays respect to the Japanese culture.

Bridge over calm waters

 As a side note, several cruise passengers took the Hopp-On, Hoppa-Off bus as essentially a one hour tour of the island, snapping photos out the window and then heading back to the ship, which I think misses the point, unless you have serious medical conditions that prohibit hopping off to explore the stops. 

If you go to Hawaii, get out and enjoy the lush foliage and lovely beaches.  Maybe even talk to a turtle.  On the coldest day, you won't get frost bite (at least if you stay near sea level), and you'll undoubtedly discover something beautiful.