Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Nice and Monaco: November, 2008


Villefranche is the gateway port for Nice and Monte Carlo. Because that port village is so charming, you might want to choose either Nice or Monte Carlo, unless you are there for more than a day.

My wife never wants to do only one thing if it is physically possible to do three on a vacation, so of course we went to both Nice and Monte Carlo.

We took the short train ride to Nice first. We had no trouble buying our tickets at the station in Villefranche, and it actually costs less than buying them in advance because of zero shipping or handling fees.  You also don't have to worry about losing them before arriving at the station.

Regardless of whether you arrive with a ticket purchased in advance or buy it at the station, it is essential that you validate the ticket before you board, as being caught on a train without a validated ticket results in a large fine several times the price of the ticket. The reason for this is that most train tickets are good for two months from the initial date of purchase, which is nice flexibility if you find yourself too enamored with where you are to leave on schedule.

Since it was Sunday, most of the stores in Nice were closed. We walked down big city streets, past the Opera House and metropolitan buildings, to the shoreline, but it was too chilly for anyone to spend time on the beautiful beach.
We snapped a photo by the fountain and headed back to the station.

When my son Jay visited Nice in the summer, it was one of his favorite stops of his train trip. He enjoyed exploring the small streets and alleys, and he found a spot from which he had a panoramic view of the area. For us, it was mostly a whistle stop.

There were a few sidewalk cafes that looked interesting, but we were in a hurry to get to Monte Carlo, Monaco.

The Rock of Monaco was used for shelter by prehistoric inhabitants, and it seems to have some history with the Greeks and the legend of Hercules, but the foundation of the Principality began on June 10, 1215, when Fulco del Casselo, seeing the advantage of the strategic location, started a fortress on the Rock. That spot is where the Prince's Palace is today.


Fulco and his Genoese Ghibellines had obtained the rights to Monaco from Emperor Henry VI of the Holy Roman Empire. To attract new residents, Monaco offered benefits not the least of which was TAX EXEMPTION.

It worked, and I think the United States ought to implement a similar strategy for wealthy multi-national companies, who would provide jobs that would benefit our country greatly, but I digress.


Francois Grimaldi seized the Rock of Monaco in 1297.  Remarkably the Grimaldi family has ruled Monaco ever since, with the exception of 1793 to 1814, when Napoleon Bonaparte captured and ruled the small country.


The famous Casino of Monte Carlo opened in 1863, and it has been a major attraction for the rich and famous as well as the gawking under classes since inception.

We didn't gamble at all, but we did enjoy a wonderful pasta lunch at the Cafe du Paris near the Casino.
The Principality of Monaco remains a playground for the jet set, and as such you shouldn't expect anything to be cheap, but staying with the pasta dishes was really quite affordable at about 12 to 15 Euros per dish. A couple of small bottles of water at about 5 Euros each padded the bill. Amy's cannelloni was fantastic, and if you go to Monte Carlo, I highly recommend it.


There are truly world class yachts in the harbor of Monte Carlo, and on this day, Royal Caribbean's sister line Azamara had one of her ships anchored nearby. One advantage of these vessels that hold only about 700 fortunate adults is their ability to enter smaller harbors into which large ships simply do not fit. I say “adults,” because, although they don't outlaw children, these smaller ships really do not have the amenities or programs that children and teenagers enjoy, and so I would only recommend Azamara and similar Oceania ships for adults.


Upon returning by train to Villefranche, we found a long line waiting for the tender, which we immediately joined. There's actually a restaurant overlooking the dock, and the smart thing to do would have been to lounge there until we saw the line diminish substantially. Nonetheless, embarkation was handled about as efficiently as possible for a ship the size of Voyager of the Seas, and the floating city welcomed us home for another wonderful evening of dining and entertainment.

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