Showing posts sorted by relevance for query st petersburg. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query st petersburg. Sort by date Show all posts

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Church of Our Savior On Spilled Blood


For our second day in St. Petersburg, we had secured a private van for the eight of us. We processed through customs at about 8:15 AM and met our guide, Sophia, who held a sign with our name on it. Right from the start, we could tell this was a great idea, as Sophia was very personable and knowledgeable. She had an excellent command of the English language and a wry sense of humor.

Our primary destination would be the Hermitage, which had been the Winter Palace of the tsars and now is one of the greatest museums in the world. Brooks and Darlene came on this cruise primarily to visit the Hermitage, and on the previous day, they had taken the ship’s tour there. They found the same crowds and lines that we encountered at Peterhof.

Since the Hermitage opened at 10:00, we drove around St. Petersburg, seeing the university, canals and other sites. On the Kissing Bridge, Julie and I kissed, as we had twice the previous day. Sophia frequently mentioned sites associated with influential writer Alexander Pushkin. Amy had read one of his poems aloud on our tour bus ride back from Peterhof the day before and received a Russian chocolate bar with the picture of a baby on it as reward.

We stopped occasionally for photos, including at the Church of Our Savior On the Spilled Blood, which according to Sophia was a building more typical of Moscow.











As you may have noticed from the anecdotal stories about Russia’s royalty, unlike the tales of Hans Christian Andersen, there often seems to be no moral to their biographies. Upon the death of Nicholas the Conqueror, his son, Emperor Alexander II, ascended to the throne and began to institute radical reforms, including reorganizing government administration, weakening the feudal system of noble landowners controlling peasants, and developing Russia’s natural resources. He began developing an extensive railway system to exploit those resources and improve Russian defenses. In 1861, Alexander the Liberator, as he came to be known, freed the serfs, who had essentially been Russian slaves working the land of the nobles. He definitely moved the country in the right direction.

The change wasn’t enough for far left revolutionaries, who believed the teachings of a new philosopher, Karl Marx. They made several assassination attempts, including an explosion on the new railway and a bomb at the Winter Palace. They successfully killed Alexander the Liberator in 1881. First, a bomb was thrown under his carriage by one terrorist, but the bulletproof carriage protected Alexander. When he got out, a second assassin threw another bomb at him, and this one did the trick. A third bomber was standing by in case the second failed. The communists, however, would not take control of Russia yet.

On the spot of the assassination, as you probably guessed, the Church On Spilled Blood was built, financed by the imperial family and thousands of contributions. When the Bolsheviks decided to wipe out religion by destroying churches throughout Russia, they fortunately only closed this beautiful church rather than destroying it.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Peterhof


In the latter years of the 17th Century, in a rather primitive, isolated country called Russia, the boy who would grow to be known as Peter the Great learned carpentry and built boats as a fun hobby, becoming a skilled craftsman in the process. As a young man, he traveled to Holland and England incognito to work in shipyards and further his knowledge.

At 6'8” and undoubtedly speaking with a Russian accent, the presence of this young man wasn't a well kept secret. He sometimes traveled with an entourage of “right nasty” men who weren't the tidiest of sorts, sometimes using paintings for target practice. An earlier version of a touring rock band comes to mind. When he took the helm of yachts loaned to him by King William III of England, Peter sometimes banged into other boats, causing great damage on some occasions. Nonetheless, the King of England gave Peter as a gift to take home one of his most modern ships, used previously for transporting dignitaries between Holland and England. Why?

The King wanted to sell goods like tobacco grown in England's New World colony, Virginia, to the vast, untapped market Peter ruled with his weak half-brother, Ivan. England also wanted to explore potential trading routes through Russia to the silk and spices of the east.

Peter returned to Russia from his travels with not only warm feelings for the modern world of England and Europe, but also the desire to make Russia more European and less rustic. With his love of boats, he wanted a navy. He decided to build a new capital, St. Petersburg, on the coast, replacing Moscow, which was too far inland to welcome the outside world.

During his travels, Peter had visited Versailles. He decided to build a palace even greater than Versailles, and he did so about 30 kilometers from St. Petersburg , making it a lovely stop for European royalty on their way to the new capital city.

Peterhof is even larger than the French palace he modeled it after. Peter himself actually liked to stay in small, rustic cabins, but he wanted to impress the world that Russia was a great country, and what better way to do that than with the greatest palace in the world?

On the morning we visited, rain poured down as bus loads of tourists sheltered by their personal umbrellas hustled past booths selling umbrellas, Cokes, postcards, hats and flash memory cards. Jay needed another flash memory card, since he had filled his camera’s card and had no place to download it, so he stimulated the Russian economy with some Euros.

Because our large shipload of people arrived late, we probably created more congestion than normal, and the rain didn't help matters. Before we even entered the doors, several people on our tour were lobbying our tour leader to cut our trip short, because they had other tours scheduled for that afternoon. We heard their pleading over the headphones our guide provided us to inform us on the tour. I took it upon myself to say, on behalf of the majority of tourists, that we did not want our tour cut short. By the end, I must say our guide took a reasonable tack, and while I would have liked more time in the gardens, we enjoyed the full tour.

Everyone is required to wear booties to protect the intricately patterned wooden parquet floors. No flash photography was allowed inside, and for some reason, we didn’t take any pictures at all, but we enjoyed seeing the interior. The gorgeous fountains and gardens, however, are the true highlights of Peterhof.

The spectacular fountains are powered entirely with gravity, which to me is a true engineering marvel designed over 300 years ago.  During World War II, the Nazis took over Peterhof from 1941 to 1944, and when they left, they did their damnedest to destroy it, creating another ashen monument to their depravity. The restoration is truly remarkable, and Peterhof, as you can see, is a wondrous site to behold.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Helsinki Churches and History



While taking the public bus allowed us to walk past the line for the shuttle bus, we ended up in another line.

For some reason, it took a long time for passengers to buy tickets or day passes.

I went up the steps with exactly 27.2 Euros, which was the total price for four passes, but the driver nonetheless took time with pen and paper to figure out how much we owed. It might have been his first day on the job, but even then he was obviously a slow learner.




The ride into town wasn't long, and the seats were comfortable.
We arrived at Senate Square, where we snapped some photos next to the granite fountain featuring a nude bronze mermaid called Havis Amanda (Sea Nymph), who rises from the water to symbolize Helsinki's rebirth.

When unveiled in 1908, French sculptor Ville Vallgren's work met with protests, especially from suffragettes who had won the vote and equality for women in Finland in 1906.

They called the statue “a common French whore,” and the artist said the model was a Parisian mademoiselle, putting a thread of truth in the objection to what they claimed to be an objectification of women.

She nonetheless remains prominently on display, looking rather innocent now, as well as beautiful, and she has become the unofficial symbol of Helsinki.


Up a long flight of majestic steps sits the Lutheran Church. Designed by German neoclassical architect Carl Ludwig Engel as the crown jewel of his Senate Square project, it was supposed to have only the center dome.

Engel died twelve years before it was completed in 1852, however, and his successor Ernst Lohrmann thought there was a flaw in the design. 

He claimed the roof might collapse if he didn't counterbalance the center dome with smaller domes on the four corners of the central part of the structure.

Built while Finland was part of Russia, it was originally called St. Nicholas' church, and the inclusion of the smaller domes tied it more closely to the architectural style of Russia in general and St. Isaac's Cathedral in St. Petersburg in particular.

We arrived shortly after an organ concert had started, so we weren't able to go inside, but looking in the windows told us it was nice but rather unremarkable inside, and we didn't return.


On a hill a short distance from Senate Square is the Russian Orthodox church, Uspenski Cathedral. Its exterior is even more Russian in design than the Lutheran Church.

Completed in 1868 under the design of Russian architect Aleksei Gornostajev, it looks older than that inside, but for me, the exterior was still far more impressive than the interior.



The Russian heritage is obviously important to Helsinki, but they have stronger ties to Sweden.

From the time of the Vikings, Sweden dominated Finland, which was part of Sweden (with an occasional incursion by Russia) from 1323 until 1809, when Sweden ceded Finland to Russia.

Napoleon had sanctioned Russia's invasion of Finland the previous year.


In 1899, Russian was declared the official language of Finland, but as you might guess, that didn't go over well.

We didn't see many Russian words on our visit, but even though only about 10% of the population speaks Swedish, all the street signs are written in Finnish and Swedish.



In 1917, when the Russian Revolution broke out, Finland took control of its own destiny, winning independence.

In 1939, Finland declared neutrality in the war, but the Soviet Union invaded them and took 10% of their land the next year under the Treaty of Moscow.

In 1941, Finland declared war on the Soviet Union, and in response, Britain declared war on Finland, so Finland was the enemy.

While World War II is considered to have ended in 1945, Finland and the Soviet Union didn't sign a treaty until 1947.

Fortunately for Finland, they maintained their independence as a capitalist society, and by the 1970s, they had the highest per capita income in the world.


Between the churches is a bastion of capitalism, the Harbour Market.

It seems like we always end up in these open air marketplaces wherever we go, tasting free samples of local produce, meat and fish, and we bought some huge raspberries that were delicious.





We did not see Temppeliaukio Rock Church, but Gina and Laszlo did as part of their Helsinki Highlights and Cuisine Tour, and they said it was very cool.

Completed in 1969, it is built inside a massive block of granite, and the copper dome makes it look like a space ship crashed into the ground.





Friday, August 14, 2009

The Hermitage


When Peter the Great completed the Winter Palace in his new capital city, St. Petersburg, he naturally displayed some art he had collected on his trips through Europe. It was Catherine the Great, however, who established a museum in the Small Hermitage in 1764. She had purchased about 300 primarily French and Flemish paintings from a Berlin art dealer. The dealer had accumulated the collection on behalf of King Frederick II of Prussia, who reneged on the deal. Without benefit of e-bay, somehow the buyer and seller met and agreed to terms.

Over the years, Catherine and her successors accumulated great artworks, including many by Italian masters purchased from the Papal Museum of the Catholic Church. By the time Tsar Nicholas II and his wife Alexandra came to power, the Hermitage housed arguably the greatest art collection in Europe. It was in 1904 that this couple introduced one of the most fascinating characters into the already outlandish lore of Russian royalty.







The heirs of Great Britain’s Queen Victoria married into royal families throughout Europe, since arranged marriages could be good foreign policy and kept the blood royal. However, her ancestors didn’t realize that Victoria’s royal blood often carried a recessive gene for hemophilia, which her granddaughter Tsaritsa Alexandra did, until the “Royal Disease,” hemophilia, showed up in a child, as it did in this case with Alexei, heir to the throne.

As loving parents, they naturally tried everything to cure their boy, but modern medicine had no answers. They turned in desperation to a Siberian mystic named Grigori Rasputin, who somehow managed to not only calm their fears but help the boy when doctors could do nothing. In fact, once while traveling in Siberia, his telegraph apparently helped. Now rationally, it has been theorized that Rasputin was a master of hypnosis, and his telegraph contained common sense, telling the parents to stop doctors from pestering the child and let him rest, but for the parents, each healing was miraculous. They eventually looked to Rasputin for help in other areas, and his power over the affairs of Russia grew.

Other nobles looked with skepticism at this “Mad Monk,” a peasant whose drinking and womanizing seemed rather unsaintly.  Rasputin said that he had to undergo the humiliation of submitting to temptation in order to reap the benefits of salvation. Regardless, the prophecies of Rasputin were heeded by Nicholas and Alexandra. Rasputin told Nicholas that the Russian military would not be successful in World War I until the Tsar took command personally, so Nicholas left the capital to lead his troops. In his absence, Rasputin’s control over Alexandra and subsequently the affairs of state grew. It was rumored that he might have even had an affair with the Tsaritsa, which considering his philosophy and affairs with many other noble women seems possible.

In 1914, a former prostitute slit open Rasputin’s stomach with a knife. She proclaimed proudly that she had killed the antichrist. With his guts extruding out the gash, he certainly seemed sure to die, but after extensive surgery, Rasputin recovered from what seemed to be a mortal wound, adding to his mystique.

Near the end of 1916, Rasputin inexplicably wrote a letter in which he said he would be gone by the New Year. If he was killed by peasants, he said, then the royal Romanov family would rule for many years. If he was killed by a relative of the Tsar, then the Tsar and his descendents would all be killed by the Russian people.

Enough was enough for the other nobles. Prince Yusopov, the husband of a niece of Nicholas, conspired to pull the problem out by its roots.

The conspirators lured Rasputin to the basement of a palace and fed him cakes and wine laced with copious amounts of cyanide, enough to kill five men. Rasputin’s daughter said he wouldn’t have eaten the cakes, because he never ate sugar. Then again, he doesn’t seem to have been a man to shy from temptation, so he undoubtedly drank the wine, even if he denied himself cake. Just to be sure, Yusopov shot Rasputin with a revolver and left him to die. When Yusopov returned later for his jacket, however, he decided to check to be sure Rasputin had no pulse. Rasputin’s eyes opened, and he grabbed Yusopov around the neck. The co-conspirators heard the struggle as Yusopov fought for his life, and they came to his aid, firing shots at Rasputin, hitting him three more times. Finally dead, they thought.

As they grabbed him to carry him away, Rasputin struggled to the point where they dropped him. They clubbed him and beat him into submission. After wrapping him in a sheet, they carried him out and dumped the body in the freezing Neva River, never to see him again.....until he surfaced three days later, his arms stretching up as if he had been trying to claw his way out from under the ice. The autopsy determined there was water in his lungs, meaning that poisoned with cyanide, beaten with clubs, and shot with four bullets, Rasputin had drowned trying to break out of his icy grave. He had died before the end of the year, as he seemingly foresaw.

About two months later, the Bolshevik Revolution overthrew the government, ending the reign of the Romanovs, who had ruled Russia for over four hundred years. Revolutionaries dug up Rasputin’s body, which had been buried by Alexandra, and took it to the woods to be cremated. As his body burned in the fire, Rasputin sat up! Had he unfrozen and come back to life?

Of course, this seems like it came straight from a horror movie, and it’s not hard to guess the reaction of the crowd watching. Rasputin hadn’t come back to life. The scientific explanation is that the body had not been properly prepared for cremation, which would include cutting the tendons. When the tendons heated up, they shrank, pulling Rasputin into a sitting position. Believe what you want. Nineteen months after Rasputin’s death, Nicholas, Alexandra and their five children were gathered in a basement and systematically shot to death.

The Hermitage had been open to the public since the middle of the 19th Century, but the Bolsheviks expanded it to encompass not only all three Hermitages but the Winter Palace itself and other buildings. The art collection now contains over three million items, although not all are displayed at the same time.

When we arrived, long lines had already formed, but being with a private guide allowed us to go to the front of the lines then and for the rest of our tour. It proved to be a terrific way to see the museum, as Sophia allowed us to spend as much time as we wanted in any particular area, although she definitely became a bit frustrated when our party would disperse around a room rather than gathering around her.

It is a magnificent collection. For example, there are twelve known paintings by Leonardo Da Vinci in the world, and the Hermitage houses two of them. Darlene and Brooks had to repeat the “greatest hits” from the day before, but they said this was a much better pace, with fewer people pushing to see the same artworks simultaneously, so they were happy to have the chance to re-visit them.

Our guide had studied art at the university, and she happily shared detailed information with us, not only about the art but about the history of the museum buildings. She told us the Hermitage was named for the quarters for guests at the Winter Palace, who would find temporary rest from palace life by taking refuge there, like hermits.

At the point when she probably normally would break for lunch, she asked what else we would like to see, and we definitely wanted more. In addition to the standard exhibits, the Hermitage rotates through special exhibits from its own vast storehouses or touring collections from other museums. We backtracked to see other exhibits, including some additional impressionist paintings and “The Perfect Victory,” a collection celebrating the 300th Anniversary of Peter the Great’s victory over Sweden’s King Karl XII at the Battle of Poltava.

Included in the latter were uniforms actually worn by Peter plus the only remaining dress uniform of King Karl, although he didn’t actually wear it at the battle. This battle marked a shift in power from the formerly formidable Sweden to the emerging Russia. It is considered to have been the deciding battle in the war in which Russia won the land which included what became St. Petersburg.

Friday, May 20, 2016

A Book About Northern Europe


A client planning a Baltic Sea Cruise with his three sons aboard Regal Princess asked me about shore excursions, which of course sent me back to my blog to refresh my memories of our family trip there.

It seems I wrote a "book" about that vacation, too.

It started with an overnight pre-cruise stay in Copenhagen, and as I concluded back then, "We managed to see a lot of Copenhagen despite...could it be?....only being there about 28 hours, including the time we were asleep. Time flies when you're having fun, but you can pack a lot of fun into time if you pay attention."  

Rosenborg Castle

Absolut Ice Bar at Copenhagen Hotel 27

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Museum

Hygge in Nyhavn

Netto Canal Tour

Vor Frelsers Kirke

And then we were boarding the beautiful Emerald Princess!.

Vacation Day at Sea

Best Laid Plans: The Vasa Museum

Walking Stockholm

Enrichment Lectures Aboard Emerald Princess

Helsinki Churches and History

Helsinki to the Finnish

Arriving in St. Petersburg

Peterhof

An Evening at Catherine's Palace

Church of Our Savior On Spilled Blood

The Hermitage

Sadko and St. Isaac's Cathedral

The Singing Revolution: Tallinn, Estonia

Second Formal Night on Emerald Princess

A Good Day in Gdansk, Poland

A Relaxing Day in Warnemunde and Rostock, Germany

To Be Or Not to Be In Helsingborg

Return to Copenhagen

In looking back at this trip, I can't help but be amazed at how much we can see and experience in a short time.


Monday, January 9, 2017

Conditioning for Travel: Back to Basics

St. Petersburg, Russia, in 2009
My wife frequently reminds me that we need to travel while we still can, because none of us knows what the future holds for our health.

I have been reminded of this frequently over the last few months, as several excellent clients were forced to cancel trips due to health issues.

At the extreme of emotional turmoil, a septuagenarian lost his beloved wife of a half century, taking away his desire to cruise to Hawaii, at least in the short term.

Zaanse Schans, Holland, in 2015
In another case, a couple in their nineties were forced to cancel due to the wife's son requiring personal care after he had a stroke.  As an aside, that couple actually met a decade ago on a cruise.  Their prior spouses had passed away a few years earlier, proving we should never say never.

A small group cancelled when an integral member experienced severe back problems for which his doctor diagnosed mandatory surgery.

Health issues can unexpectedly pop up for anyone.  A few months ago, another old friend's doctor also recommended back surgery for him.

Snorkeling in St. Kitts in 2016
An Extreme Sports Athlete beginning decades before the term had been coined, he had already gone through two knee replacement surgeries and undergone all the necessary rehab exercises to return to being a world-class skier.

Rather than go under the knife again, he sought a more holistic alternative, which led him to Eric Goodman's exercises.


Back on the slopes, making it look easy.
Within a few weeks of starting Dr. Goodman's regimen, he went from being barely able to get out of a chair to skiing, and after a couple of days on the slopes, his form returned to excellent, carving perfect turns and frequently tearing down mountains at a breakneck pace.

He had been conditioned to have a straight back as a member of the college swim team at Stanford long ago, but these new exercises trained him to an even healthier back posture, one which eventually took away the pain.

While the videos provide the basic techniques, no one suffering back problems should begin any regimen without consulting a doctor, and preferably he should find a personal trainer to get him started.



By the way, if you find yourself unable to complete the exercise regimens the first time or find yourself surprisingly exhausted from what seem like simple stretches, welcome to the club.

Lunch on Celebrity Eclipse

I'd like to include here that I personally have found that a good chiropractor can be of great help in getting alligned and on my feet again when my back went out, although thankfully I haven't had that problem in years.

We should never accept a gradual health decline without resistance.  Staying fit is the best way to be ready for a cruise or other travel when the time comes.  

Julie and I watch what we eat, though without denying ourselves completely of dining pleasures.  An occasional burger with fries or ice cream cone won't kill us.  What I've noticed to be the biggest difference between food on a cruise, when I inevitably lose weight despite eating as much as I want, and at home, where I often have some kind of hidden hunger lurking, is lots of vegetables and fruit as part of a balanced diet, so I try to remind myself to eat more veggies at home.

A few years ago, I was diagnosed with high cholesterol and pre-hypertension (high blood pressure).  On the recommendation of a friend, I started taking lecithin.  While my cholesterol isn't low, it has slowly been dropping, and my blood pressure recently became regularly in the normal range.

Kicking back after a hike from Azamara Journey in Patmos, Greece
We make a point of walking at least two or three miles each day, and I personally believe wearing Skechers Shape-Ups not only has improved the quality of exercise I receive on those walks but helped straighten my back, which caused me problems over the years.

Skechers may not be able to claim Shape-Ups improve quality of exercise or back health, but that has been my experience.

Seal boating at Dunvegan Castle on Isle of Skye.
I even wear them when on rigorous mountain hikes and when playing golf.

I also do at least 100 push-ups each day, though without an exact schedule.  I'll just drop and do 30 or 40 push-ups at random times when I think about it.

I've added Dr. Goodman's back stretches as a sort of New Years resolution.

My sister can float on powder as easily as this groomed run
The payoff of being healthy enough to truly enjoy walking to the top of Machu Picchu or to confidently hike to a distant snorkel beach in Kaz, Turkey, is well worth the preparation effort.

A terrific bonus is that exercising as part of an active lifestyle is a lot of fun in its own right.

Skiing in Montana is an amazing way to exercise, enjoy nature and have a blast.

Our nephew can ski anywhere and make it look easy.
My sister's delcious meals make it a perfect vacation for us.

Our nephew took some great action ski photos of our Christmas ski trip this year, and I've included a few herein.

To be clear, I don't hold myself up as a paragon of health, but rather to encourage you to find your own way to stay healthy for travel.

Jay has become a powder hound.


Julie at the top of Pioneer

That's me!


Montana Views are awesome.
If you look closely, you can see the cleanly carved tracks of perfect ski form.
Julie by the new  Buffalo Bar and Grille being constructed.
Cousins About to Attack Powder Off Middle Ching
Ready to take on the slopes.
Apres Ski By the Fire
Teddy and the Bear
Marvelous Montana Skiing