Showing posts sorted by relevance for query copenhagen. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query copenhagen. Sort by date Show all posts

Friday, May 20, 2016

A Book About Northern Europe


A client planning a Baltic Sea Cruise with his three sons aboard Regal Princess asked me about shore excursions, which of course sent me back to my blog to refresh my memories of our family trip there.

It seems I wrote a "book" about that vacation, too.

It started with an overnight pre-cruise stay in Copenhagen, and as I concluded back then, "We managed to see a lot of Copenhagen despite...could it be?....only being there about 28 hours, including the time we were asleep. Time flies when you're having fun, but you can pack a lot of fun into time if you pay attention."  

Rosenborg Castle

Absolut Ice Bar at Copenhagen Hotel 27

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Museum

Hygge in Nyhavn

Netto Canal Tour

Vor Frelsers Kirke

And then we were boarding the beautiful Emerald Princess!.

Vacation Day at Sea

Best Laid Plans: The Vasa Museum

Walking Stockholm

Enrichment Lectures Aboard Emerald Princess

Helsinki Churches and History

Helsinki to the Finnish

Arriving in St. Petersburg

Peterhof

An Evening at Catherine's Palace

Church of Our Savior On Spilled Blood

The Hermitage

Sadko and St. Isaac's Cathedral

The Singing Revolution: Tallinn, Estonia

Second Formal Night on Emerald Princess

A Good Day in Gdansk, Poland

A Relaxing Day in Warnemunde and Rostock, Germany

To Be Or Not to Be In Helsingborg

Return to Copenhagen

In looking back at this trip, I can't help but be amazed at how much we can see and experience in a short time.


Friday, July 17, 2009

Arriving in Copenhagen

“Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards." ---Soren Kierkegaard

These words by Denmark's most famous philosopher came to mind frequently on our recent Northern Europe vacation. While flying to Copenhagen certainly costs more and is considerably less convenient than flying to London from Los Angeles, clearing customs proved to be a breeze, whereas London Heathrow can be a bit of a muddle. Soon we were whisked away by our cab driver to the Marriott. While he was certainly efficient and honest, if I could do it over, I would have called Lars Moulton (tel. 20 97 88 99), our knowledgeable Copenhagen native cabbie who cheerfully pointed out sites and related interesting historical anecdotes all the way to the airport on our final day in Europe.

Our check-in hit a snag when the desk clerk said our reservation did not designate that we wanted two beds. Yes, he admitted, it was for four adults, but they had only saved a room with one king bed in which only one roll-away could be added due to space limitations, so we would need to sleep three in the bed. As calmly as we could, we pointed out that no one in his or her right mind expects to sleep with three adults in one bed when they book a quad room. Eventually he came back with a solution which involved us paying 550 Kroners (about $110) to upgrade to a better room which included breakfast. Oh, and it would be a smoking room instead of a non-smoking room as booked. He assured us the hotel was overbooked and no other possibility existed.
We of course remembered the Seinfeld joke about knowing how to take a reservation but not keep the reservation, with keeping the reservation really being the key ingredient, but we didn't want to reference an American television show to someone who spoke English as a second language. Instead, we simply stayed with our original rational point that in booking a room for four adults, we assume at a minimum there would be two double beds, with a possible option on a roll-away. Miraculously, our clerk found a way to put a single person who hadn't arrived into a room with the one king bed instead of the two doubles he requested. This kind of double-dealing and arm-twisting to force upgrades upon arrival seems somewhat common in Europe, I've noticed, so I can't hold this one Marriott exclusively to blame for the practice, but it pissed me off. Nonetheless, I gave the bell hop a good tip when he dropped our bags at our room.
Soon, we were trekking across Copenhagen on foot to Rosenborg Castle, historic home of influential King Christian IV and venue for one stage of the 2009 Copenhagen Jazz Festival.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Absolut Ice Bar at Copenhagen Hotel 27


“Once you label me, you negate me.”---Soren Kierkegaard

Until MOJO-HD succumbed to financial reality and shut down due to lack of advertising, it was my favorite TV channel and home to my favorite TV show, “Three Sheets” starring Zane Lamprey. Don't confuse “Three Sheets” with the pale imitation, “The Thirsty Traveler,” that tries to trick viewers with a misleading listing on the channel guides. Nobody does it like Zane, and when he extolled the virtues of the Absolut Ice Bar at Copenhagen's Hotel 27 in his Denmark episode, I knew we must experience it on this trip. When Julie found out the price was more than $25 per person for admission and one drink, she said it sounded like a rip off, but we made reservations anyway, because I felt I owed it to my clients to know the truth so they could make informed travel decisions. That's just the way I roll.

In retrospect, I must sheepishly admit that the money would probably be better spent toward admission to Tivoli, the world renowned amusement park in the heart of Copenhagen, but taking relative value out of the equation, it was a cool experience....in more ways than the obvious.

Jay managed to show up on time at 7 PM by walking faster than the rest of us, and by the time Julie, Amy and I arrived, he and my son-in-law Laszlo were sipping water at the regular bar at the hotel.



Gina had just started a Carlsberg, but the lounge was quite warm, and rushing back and forth across town had me sweating. We were ten minutes late for our reservation already, so I thought we better get going.



I unconscionably rushed Gina to finish her rather expensive beverage so that we could man parkas and gloves to go into the ice walled bar.

Once inside, everything but the floor is either made of ice or covered in ice, including the bar, pictures and chairs. The glasses are made entirely of ice, imported from Sweden's Ice Hotel.
I wanted to order an Absolut Pear, which Zane assured me was quite tasty, but they no longer offered that. I ordered some kind of vanilla vodka drink, and it was overly sweet, as were those everyone else in our party tried. They were also smaller than I anticipated, although I don't know that I would have wanted any more. I think straight Absolut Vodka or a Martini would have been a better choice, although I don't remember seeing them on the menu.

Despite the drinks, however, we had a good time, thanks primarily to my fun-loving children who took the cue from the pounding techno music to start doing some bobbing dance moves. We had fun bouncing around to the music, even after some other patrons entered and possibly labeled us as crazy Americans.


After about a half hour, the cold was getting to us, so we re-surfaced into the warm Copenhagen air to watch a kind of beat-poet-jazz-meets-Talking-Heads band playing at the hotel's patio bar. We didn't order drinks, but we did pass around my melting ice glass which I took as a short-lived souvenir.

Gina and Laszlo were hungry, so they bought some take-out Indian food to eat on the patio by our hotel, but the Marriott restaurant was busy, and sitting at their tables just wouldn't be right, so we sat on a nearby concrete platform by the canal. The daylight defied the time of 9:40 PM, and I had been awake for something like 25 hours, so I was a party pooper, leading the way to bed, although admittedly once there I had trouble getting to sleep, much less staying asleep.

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Netto Canal Tour



A great introduction to Copenhagen is one of the canal tours. I can't say for sure if the Netto Canal Tour is as good as the others, but we caught it a short walk from Cafe Optimisten, and we all enjoyed the trip. It costs 30 Kroner, whereas the others cost 60.

The guide pointed out all the sites by name, and the voyage offers a quick glance at this wonderful city, including a little history.

Among the sites is the famous Little Mermaid statue that most people consider a can't miss feature of the city.


If you have only the afternoon to see Copenhagen, this is an excellent choice, especially if jetlag stops your feet from following your heart too far.

No matter how tired you are, you should be able to settle into one of the comfortable seats and watch the Danish world glide by.

As you can see, the clouds had darkened the skies, and we even had a little rain, but we didn't let that dampen our spirits.

There are several low bridges, one of which has a corner immediately afterwards that makes it seem impossible for these long boats to make it through.

I have to admit that I was just kind of relaxing and taking in the sites rather than listening that intently to our guide, whose English translations weren't nearly as detailed as the Danish ones but considerably lengthier than the German ones done for the benefit of one couple.

We had given Jay a definite deadline of 5 PM to meet us at the Marriott to pick up our luggage from the bell hop, and we had maybe fifteen minutes to spare if we left right as the canal tour ended.

Jay told us later that he and his friends were running to get there, only to arrive a couple of minutes late and wonder if we had left for the ship without him.


Instead, we were running late ourselves, having indulged in one last activity in Copenhagen: climbing a unique church tower for a panoramic view of the city.

Monday, May 6, 2013

From the Mexican Riviera to the Land of the Vikings


"Cartagena? Angel, you are hell and gone from Cartagena."
---Jack T. Colton

Norwegian Star
My brain works in strange ways.  My wife and kids will be happy to verify that.

While inquiries from clients kept my cruise mind thinking about the Mexican Riviera, in my spare time I have also been watching The Vikings, a History Channel mini-series set in the Dark Ages of Scandivavia.

I mentioned previously that Norwegian Star is returning to the Mexican Riviera for some itineraries in 2013-4.  No, that is not a stretch worthy of the title of this article, but you can see a slight connection based on the cruise line name.

It goes much further than that, literally as well as figuratively.


Jack T. Colton and Joan Wilder
 
There will be an actual voyage link beginning on April 20, 2014, when Norwegian Star cruises from Los Angeles, California, to Copenhagen, Denmark. This 29-night voyage visits the Mexican Riviera Star ports of Cabo San Lucas and Puerto Vallarta before reaching the more exotic Mexican ports of Huatulco and Puerto Chiapas. After continuing down to Costa Rica and through the amazing Panama Canal, you pop out on the other side of our continent to visit Cartagena (remember Romancing the Stone?) and funky fun Key West before arriving in Miami.

If you stop there, you will have enjoyed a great Panama Canal cruise, but why not be like a Viking explorer and set off across uncharted territory to see what lies beyond the deep blue sea?

Okay, it's not uncharted territory, but it will take you for lots of sea days before you spy land in the Azores where you'll truly appreciate a port day, and then 3 more days at sea before arriving in jolly old England.

If you watched The Vikings, you know the frontiers of England were the lands pillaged by the savage Northmen, but you'll most likely visit slightly more civilized London from the port of Dover, which is rich in history of its own.

Rosenborg Castle Gardens, Copenhagen
 
On to lovely Helsingborg, Sweden and finally Copenhagen, Denmark, where you may be surprised to find the epitome of civilization rather than the locale portrayed in the History Channel mini-series.

I think that's what I found most fascinating about "The Vikings." When we visited the region in 2009, we found educated, well-groomed, highly civilized people, whereas the mini-series revealed that 8 centuries after Jesus Christ had been crucified, the Scandinavian pagans were still sacrificing animals and, even more shockingly, humans.


Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood
In fact, all those atheists trying to end Christmas and Easter need to see what the world was like before Jesus and, in many parts of the world including pre-Columbian America as well as Scandinavia, for centuries thereafter. If for no other reason, we should all thank God for Jesus taking blood sacrifice out of "worship services."

To learn more about the history of the region, you can get back on the ship for an additional 9-night Scandinavia-Russia cruise on the same ship. You will return kissing the ground of America, thankful that you live in the greatest place in the greatest time in history.

And that is one of the ongoing gifts of travel: returning with the necessary perspective to appreciate what you have.

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Hygge in Nyhavn



“Being born in a duck yard does not matter, if only you are hatched from a swan's egg.”---Hans Christian Andersen

Jay ditched us at the art museum to hang out with Danish friends he met back home through his girlfriend Katie, and the rest of us headed to Nyhavn (pronounced New Houn), which IS exactly what I hoped Copenhagen would be like.



Translated, Nyhavn means New Harbor, which probably made sense when King Christian V established it in the 1670s. Today, it is the oldest part of Copenhagen Harbor. Over the years, Nyhavn has undergone many changes, from sparkling and new to a seedy red light district of bars for rough and tumble sailors to the chic area of sidewalk cafes and pastel colored homes of today.



Hans Christian Andersen (born April 2, 1805) lived in Number 20 on the Shady Side of the harbor from 1834 to 1838. His “Fairy Tales” was first published in early 1835, with additional stories added over the next couple of years, and you can still find many editions at Amazon.com, including for Kindle, a digital book device my sister and brother-in-law love for carrying e-books while traveling. Among the 159 stories of “Fairy Tales” are “The Little Mermaid,” “The Emperor's New Clothes,” “The Princess and the Pea” and “Thumbelina.” Walt Disney and others used Andersen's stories as the basis for some all-time favorite movies, as I'm sure you know. In 1837, Andersen published “The Ugly Duckling,” which is included in most new editions of “Fairy Tales.”



“Fairy Tales” sold slowly at first, but by 1845, Andersen could afford to live in Number 67 on the Sunny Side where all the rich people lived. Years later, he moved once more in Nyhavn, to Number 18, where he lived until his death in 1875.




Our afternoon in Nyhavn was not a celebration of the famous author but of Hygge. Roughly translated, Hygge (pronounced hu-gah) means taking great pleasure in ordinary, every day things, and through that appreciation making the experience extraordinary. I've always appreciated this state, but I never had a label for it, and despite Kierkegaard's musing that labeling a man negates him, I rather like having a word to describe this feeling. Relaxing for a good time in a cozy atmosphere in the company of loved ones is Hygge, and you haven't lived until you slip into Hygge.



Gina and Laszlo had been to Nyhavn previously during their stay, and they directed us to Cafe Optimisten, where they treated us to lunch. Everyone else had sandwiches, all of which were quite tasty and filling, but they cheered me on to get more traditional Copenhagen fare: “Two Kinds of Herring.” The plated presentation of the herring was beautiful, and...Surprise! Surprise!... along with a half liter of Tuborg Classic, the meal was delicious.



The pickled herring was reminiscent of the flavor of tuna salad my beloved mother made me when I would run home for lunch and "Let's Make a Deal" in grade school, another great Hygge experience before I knew the term. The smoked herring was just as good, and the salty flavor went down good followed by the beer.



The prices, by the way, while certainly not inexpensive, were nonetheless a little lower than other cafes in the area, possibly because of being on the Shady Side. On a warm day, however, the shade along with nice views made it the better side to us.