“Being born in a duck yard does not matter, if only you are hatched from a swan's egg.”---Hans Christian Andersen
Jay ditched us at the art museum to hang out with Danish friends he met back home through his girlfriend Katie, and the rest of us headed to Nyhavn (pronounced New Houn), which IS exactly what I hoped Copenhagen would be like.
Translated, Nyhavn means New Harbor, which probably made sense when King Christian V established it in the 1670s. Today, it is the oldest part of Copenhagen Harbor. Over the years, Nyhavn has undergone many changes, from sparkling and new to a seedy red light district of bars for rough and tumble sailors to the chic area of sidewalk cafes and pastel colored homes of today.
Hans Christian Andersen (born April 2, 1805) lived in Number 20 on the Shady Side of the harbor from 1834 to 1838. His “Fairy Tales” was first published in early 1835, with additional stories added over the next couple of years, and you can still find many editions at Amazon.com, including for Kindle, a digital book device my sister and brother-in-law love for carrying e-books while traveling. Among the 159 stories of “Fairy Tales” are “The Little Mermaid,” “The Emperor's New Clothes,” “The Princess and the Pea” and “Thumbelina.” Walt Disney and others used Andersen's stories as the basis for some all-time favorite movies, as I'm sure you know. In 1837, Andersen published “The Ugly Duckling,” which is included in most new editions of “Fairy Tales.”
“Fairy Tales” sold slowly at first, but by 1845, Andersen could afford to live in Number 67 on the Sunny Side where all the rich people lived. Years later, he moved once more in Nyhavn, to Number 18, where he lived until his death in 1875.
Our afternoon in Nyhavn was not a celebration of the famous author but of Hygge. Roughly translated, Hygge (pronounced hu-gah) means taking great pleasure in ordinary, every day things, and through that appreciation making the experience extraordinary. I've always appreciated this state, but I never had a label for it, and despite Kierkegaard's musing that labeling a man negates him, I rather like having a word to describe this feeling. Relaxing for a good time in a cozy atmosphere in the company of loved ones is Hygge, and you haven't lived until you slip into Hygge.
Gina and Laszlo had been to Nyhavn previously during their stay, and they directed us to Cafe Optimisten, where they treated us to lunch. Everyone else had sandwiches, all of which were quite tasty and filling, but they cheered me on to get more traditional Copenhagen fare: “Two Kinds of Herring.” The plated presentation of the herring was beautiful, and...Surprise! Surprise!... along with a half liter of Tuborg Classic, the meal was delicious.
The pickled herring was reminiscent of the flavor of tuna salad my beloved mother made me when I would run home for lunch and "Let's Make a Deal" in grade school, another great Hygge experience before I knew the term. The smoked herring was just as good, and the salty flavor went down good followed by the beer.
The prices, by the way, while certainly not inexpensive, were nonetheless a little lower than other cafes in the area, possibly because of being on the Shady Side. On a warm day, however, the shade along with nice views made it the better side to us.
