Showing posts sorted by relevance for query crete. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query crete. Sort by date Show all posts

Thursday, August 9, 2007

A Family Odyssey: July, 2007

Julie’s father, John, went to Crete several decades ago and somehow located the extended family of his father, Nikolaos Migiakis.

In honor of John Megas (name shortened at Ellis Island) visiting from America, the village of cousins slaughtered a goat for a feast.

At every family get-together for the last twenty years, my sister-in-law Cheryl has suggested we follow in their father’s footsteps and go to Crete to see Grandpa Nick’s hillside village near the small town of Chania, from where he legally immigrated to the United States in 1912.


School schedules with different holiday breaks limited the opportunities to summer, despite knowing summers would be hot in Greece.

Discussions about spending an entire vacation in Crete unraveled rapidly, as no one thought there would be enough to do, and mainstream cruises seemed to only devote about four hours to Crete.

When Royal Caribbean announced their schedule for 2007, a special 8-night cruise that spent a full day in Crete caught my eye.

I held some group space and floated the idea.

Julie said we would definitely be going, and that firm commitment encouraged others to sign on, although not with 100% participation of which Cheryl dreamed.

We hoped their father’s siblings might join, but Aunt Myrtle feared seasickness, and Uncle George wasn’t up for the long voyage this time.

Kids and grand kids from that branch of the family all eschewed the trip.

Julie’s brother, a usually voracious traveler himself, didn’t want to travel without his three young children, and paying for five air tickets didn’t seem worth it to him.

Besides, he would really rather hang out in Maui than in Europe, even if the prices were the same.

Julie’s sister Jacque signed on with her two oldest daughters, but her husband and two younger children didn’t want to stray that far from the golf courses and high school fields of San Diego.

While my mother and my sister’s family really have no direct link to Greece, I had hoped they would come along for what I felt confident would be a very special adventure, but none signed on, despite the fact that our oldest daughter and her new husband, who now live in New York, had decided to join us on vacation this year.


Nonetheless, the ship sailed with twelve family members onboard. Despite a year of planning and correspondence designed to help locate the cousins in Crete, we arrived in Crete without successfully contacting any of them.

When the time came to head to the village near Chania where life started for Nick, four of us opted to stay in Heraklion rather than search the countryside for distant relatives who were not expecting us and don't speak the same language.

Our son-in-law ventured out on his own, while my brother-in-law, oldest daughter and I set out to find Knossos, the Palace of King Minos and a hub of Minoan Civilization, for the per person price of 2.3 Euros roundtrip bus fare and 6 Euros admission.


The other eight piled into two taxis for their date with destiny, agreeing to pay 180 Euros for each of the cabs.

Friday, June 10, 2011

The Road to Madaro

Sisters Julie, Cheryl and Jacque with their families in July, 2007.

When we returned from a summer cruise to the Greek Isles almost four years ago, I wrote an article about Julie and her sisters visiting Chania, Crete, to see the area where their Grandpa Nick had grown up.

A few weeks later, I received this e-mail:

Dear Wes:

It is with great interest and curiosity that I read about your trip to Madaro, a small Cretan village south of Chania (Hania) on the island of Crete. You see, during my lunch break yesterday, I decided to “google” the village that my grandfather hailed from “Madaro”. Consequently, I came upon your blog. My name is Harold Migias. My grandfather was Haralambos Migiakis aka Charalambos Miyiakis aka “Harry Migias” upon his arrival at Ellis Island in 1912 with his cousin Joseph “Iosif” Birakis. I visited Madaro in 1996.



Road to Madaro in July, 2007.


How does your family fit into the Migiakis-Birakis family tree? As I recall from my visit, those are the only two families up there.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Harold Migias (son of John Migias)



Sorting through family trees, Harold determined his grandfather was the first cousin of Julie's grandfather, but their last names had been altered differently at Ellis Island.

Julie's father, John Megas, had visited Chania and Madaro about ten years before Harold had, and it was his stories of the warm hospitality of his distant cousins including Eftalia Birakis that planted in Julie the idea of hooking up with relatives on Crete.
Amy in taxi to Chania in July, 2007.
For the previous trip, Julie's sister had tried to contact Eftalia before we arrived on Crete but unfortunately could not. After making phone contact through a taxi driver while in Chania, however, we did start sending letters translated by internet programs to Eftalia in case we tried again. It was never quite clear how we would actually communicate once we were there, but when we found a cruise spending a full day in Chania, Harold brought us the solution.

He had met Nikolaos Mygiakis, a younger member of the family in Chania, on his trip to Crete, and Nikos knows how to speak English. We suddenly had someone of our generation as a connection in Crete. As luck would have it, Nikos would be forced to work on the day we arrived, but he introduced us by e-mail to his brother, Vasilis.

Road to Madaro in May, 2011.
Vasilis proved to be a Godsend. He set up a meeting place near Souda Harbor. We worried if he knew the exact pier for our ship and if we would find our meeting spot. We worried he may not show up at all for "cousins" whom, after all, he had never heard of until a few weeks earlier. We arrived a few minutes early and scouted out the area to be sure we were in the right place.

Aunt Ermioni and Cousin Vasilis upon arrival in Madaro, 2011.

Right on schedule, Vasilis arrived in his car, and he had a Mercedes taxi following him to drive the other three of us up to Madaro. He spoke English fluently, and the taxi driver could understand most of what we said. A palpable spark of excitement said, "This is actually going to work!"

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Christmas Time in NYC




Many people wax poetic about the joys of Christmas Time in New York City.

As fluffy snow wafted down on Bryant Park's huge Christmas tree, smiling skaters glided around the outdoor rink.  Huts selling hot drinks, snacks and gift items put smiles on more faces.  It was a perfect movie setting, although a lot colder than sitting in a comfy theater seat.

To get from Dallas BBQ in Time Square to fulfill Gina's promise to little Emma to visit this site, we had braved a brisk wind that blew icy snow in our faces, upsetting Emma and not well-accepted by her Nanna either.

Walking through the bright city lights in the snow also epitomizes the Hollywood-ification of the Manhattan Christmas experience, but it's hard to look around when you're trying to avoid getting pelted in the face in a blustery wind.  Nonetheless, I managed to look around as we walked without running into too many bustling New Yorkers and tourists out on the busy city sidewalks for the same experience.

Bryant Park proved to be worth the trek.  Surprisingly surpassing Rockefeller Center, which we visited last December, Bryant Park really is that picture perfect city holiday setting, especially with the light snow God sprinkled on us for our stay. When Emma's a bit older, we'll definitely want to take her ice skating there.

I have fond memories of taking Emma's mother to ice skating lessons in Costa Mesa every Wednesday afternoon when she was in grammar school.  Gina loved the lessons and the outfits with little skirts that she could twirl, but I think mostly she liked playing "Down by the Banks" with her friend Kelly in the rink before class.  Years later, when I took Gina's little sister to tennis lessons, Amy would become so distracted with her conversations with her friend Alexis that she could barely be interrupted to actually hit the tennis ball, but sports isn't anything if it doesn't include camaraderie.

Competition, of course, is fun too, but for my girls, it was not found so much in sports as in other games, like Bridge.  On a different evening of our trip, Gina took me to her Bridge lesson on the 14th floor of a Manhattan skyscraper.  It included a buffet dinner before class.

We learned how to score duplicate Bridge, and then we played a few games.  Because there were only 10 students, 8 of whom had set up at other tables, Gina and I found ourselves playing the teacher, who bid both hands as our competition.  If he won the bid, he would play it as the bidder, and if Gina won the bid (I never won a bid, generally having, as my mother used to say, "itty bitty cards," or at least the second best hand between us), I would play as the teacher's partner, doing my best to help him set Gina.  In a couple of games when Gina and I were playing defense, we baffled the instructor as to why we played exactly as we had, which had caused him to lose extra tricks.  I think it upset him a bit, and we ended up scoring more net points by the end of the session.  As I used to tell Jay's tee ball team, "It's not whether you win or lose, but winning is easy.  All you have to do is score more than the other team."  And even if no one else kept score, I always have.

Most of our family visit was just talking, enjoying meals together and entertaining Emma.

We built a gingerbread village from a kit, each of us trying our hand at constructing a building or two, with Emma doing most of the decorating.

We also went to a small park near Gina's apartment where we built a snow man, or really more of a snow bust of Napoleon, from big clumps of snow that had been cleared off the sidewalks by some city worker.

We were actually supposed to have played in the snow the day before at world-famous Central Park, but it was just too cold, so we had instead headed into the Natural History Museum.  It is a gigantic place with lots of great exhibits, so the two hours we devoted to visiting wasn't nearly enough, but we couldn't dally.

We had a very special dinner date a couple of subway train rides away at Dallas BBQ in Times Square.  We were meeting long lost family members we'd become acquainted with as a result of this blog.

In 2007, I had posted articles about trying to search Julie's grandfather's roots on Crete, and a previously unknown cousin named Harold found my blog while doing a web search for Madaro, the home town of Julie's Grandpa Nick.  Nick had come to America with two cousins, one of whom was Harold's grandfather.  Both of those grandfathers went to work in coal mines in different states.  The third young man decided he'd rather return to sun-drenched Crete. 

Decades later, Harold's family line had remained in touch with the family in Crete, including Nikos, a grandson of the third young man who had returned home.  Julie and I had planned to return to Madaro, because she had not been successful in hooking up with family on the prior visit, and Harold introduced her to Nikos online.  Nikos works in the tourist industry in Crete, so he speaks fluent English, but unfortunately he was not available to show us around when we visited due to health.  He put us in contact with his brother Vasilis, who incredibly met us in his own car with an extra cab and driver to show us around Madaro and Chania in 2011, making the trip a fanastic experience.
 

Vasilis told us during our visit to Crete that he had spent much of his career in the Greek Navy stationed in Athens, and he no longer had any use for big cities.  In fact, he said he would never again leave his homeland of Crete, but this year his brother Nikos came to the U.S. to spend a month visiting Harold's family and Harold's brother George's family on the east coast.

We made it a point to get together with all of them, meeting them for dinner at Dallas BBQ. 

Harold and George brought their wives and children, so with Gina, Emma and Amy joining us, we had 16 people for the gathering.  They were all very nice, although because their kids were at the far end of the table, I really only got to know the adults to any extent.  They were all warm, nice people, and it felt like we'd known them for years.

I found it amusing that Niko didn't like the blandness of his hamburger, which was not up to Crete's standards apparently.  Harold and George had taken Niko to Outback Steakhouse on a different evening, and he couldn't understand why Outback couldn't cook his steak in oregano (Niko's interesting Greek pronunciation of oregano left me at first wondering what he was talking about, but eventually it registered because Julie's Greek Uncle George had given us fresh oregano when we'd last seen him in Northern California) instead of the bland Outback standard rub.  That is exactly the opposite of his cousin, my wife Julie, who feels Greek food is too spicy and garlicky.  I would surmise it points to a family trait of liking to stay with what tastes familiar.

We enjoyed a wonderful visit with all our family, from those members we've known from birth to those with whom we've recently become acquainted.  I originally called this a reunion, but Julie reminded me it really isn't a reunion if you've never met in person previously.  Whatever you call it, it was a festive occasion and part of a great Christmas Time experience in New York.

Sunday, May 28, 2017

A Book About Our Family's Greek Isles Cruise from Venice

John Megas, Sr.
It has been almost ten years since we embarked on our odyssey to find the family roots for Julie and her sisters Jacque and Cheryl, along with the next generation in that family tree.

Their brother John's family couldn't join us on that trip, but otherwise it was a wonderful chance to reunite with the John Megas Senior family on a beautiful, historic and fun cruise vacation.

Before he passed away, John Megas Senior spoke glowing of his trip to visit distant relatives in the village of Madaro, Crete, which laid the groundwork for the next generation to make their trek.

Much has changed since that trip for all of the family members, including the addition of another generation.

That trip commemorated a unique moment in time for all of us, though we didn't think of it in those terms as we experienced it.

It's fascinating to think how our lives branched out following that trip, as well as who we all were at that time.

Here are links to memories from that trip:

Arriving in Venice

Cruising From Venice

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Time at Sea


A Family Odyssey

Chania, Crete

Heraklion, Crete

More Photos of Heraklion

Capping Off Crete

Ephesus

Miletus and Philosophy

Didyma and Oracles

Santorini

Corfu

Another Day at Sea

Venice

Venice to Burano

San Marco

Flying Home

Friday, August 10, 2007

Heraklion, Crete: July, 2007



For the first couple of hours after we split from the group, I worried about not being there to look after them. While I doubted they would overcome the language barriers even if they did happen to find their "cousins," I couldn't help but feel I was something of a defector to the cause, and of course I didn't relish the idea of missing some joyful celebration if they made contact.

On the other hand, in a world where taxis only hold four passengers, a group of nine or ten would have cost 540 Euros, 50% more than 360 Euros for the group of eight that went, so the cheaper tourist-like route to Knossos definitely saved money.

 
A complimentary bus takes passengers from the ship to the gate of the pier, and from there we hiked about a half mile to the bus stop where we had no trouble securing seats to Knossos for 2.3 Euros roundtrip each.

Taxis offered a combination of roundtrip transportation to Knossos with a city tour for about 90 to 150 Euros per taxi, depending on the length of the trip, and of course there are excursions from the ship available, but we opted to rough it on the city bus. Tourists and locals continued to pile onto the bus at each stop, so by the time we reached Knossos just a few minutes out of town, it was jam packed with hot people.
 


My brother-in-law Rollie bought a souvenir book before we paid our six Euros each for admission. The Palace is surrounded by green fields sloping up from a fertile valley in which the palace sits. It isn't hard to imagine why a wealthy and enlightened mercantile civilization developed here.

As we strolled along the trellised walkway toward the palace, the trees sang eerily. This was no gentle hum. This loud chirping, I joked, must have driven the Minoans mad, leading to their seemingly mysterious demise. We wondered if they might be locusts, but a fellow tourist identified them as cicadas, which are harmless grasshopper relatives.
 
Knossos mythically contained the labyrinth in which King Minos kept the bull-headed Minotaur, a beast brought out to defeat enemies.

The palace definitely had advanced innovations of engineering such as plumbing with terra cotta pipes and the first known flushing toilet.

The intelligently designed layout took advantage of natural light and even on a hot day, as we enjoyed for our visit, certain areas on the top floor of the palace felt almost air conditioned by the gentle sea breezes that swept through the valley.

The Minoans loved sports, as seen in competitions portrayed in their art. The Minoans seem to have been an unmilitaristic civilization, more interested in culture and art than war. There were no fortifications or stores of weapons excavated. Perhaps when the myth of the Minotaur was busted, they were overrun by warriors from distant lands, or perhaps it was a cataclysmic earthquake or volcano that ended Minoan civilization. It's hard separating myth from reality in Knossos and much of the ancient world. Some believe the legend of Atlantis refers to the destruction of the advanced Minoan civilization.

The actual ruins we visited have many detractors who claim the team led by wealthy amateur archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans may have taken too many liberties in re-assembling the stones, but it's certainly easy to reach and explore these fascinating ruins from the comfort of a cruise ship.
After exploring the ruins to our hearts' content and then sipping cold water in the shade by the souvenir shop, we caught the bus back into the city. Gina, Rollie and I walked through a sort of alley-way that must be a night club district, with lots of young adults lounging on leather couches in establishments that somehow blended outdoors and indoors into one environment.

The seating looked comfortable, but the feel of the places were more like bars than restaurants, so we walked on until we found a perfect little gyro bistro. We ordered gyros for 2.8 Euros each and Mythos Beer at 1.6 Euros each. The three of us all decided this "Hellenic" beer was good stuff, and when the gyros arrived, they put anything by that name we ever had in the U.S. to shame. The pita was a fresh baked creation somewhere between a pancake and an American pita, and the lamb, yogurt based sauce and vegetables inside were all delicious. Yellow french fries poured out the top of the pita, like ice cream in a cone. Sitting at a sidewalk cafe on Crete enjoying a meal together with loved ones is about as good as it gets.

We considered going to the beach, but Gina didn't feel like that, and I couldn't bear another bout of separation anxiety, so instead we walked in search of a taverna. We found one by the Aegean Sea next to a Venetian fortress built a few hundred years ago, and there we shared a bottle of Mythos and some ouzo, speaking a little with a saxophone player from the Splendour of the Seas orchestra who happened to be at the next table.
When we finally returned to the pier, we saw the others returning from Chania.


My brother-in-law Rollie posted some photos online of our time in Crete, including these. Since I didn't have any pictures of my oldest daughter Gina, Rollie and I enjoying our fantastic day together in Crete, I decided to add them below as a sort of addendum to the original post.


The picture above shows Rollie and I standing between our waiter and cook at the gyros place where we had lunch. This lunch was a highlight of the cruise, and I think you can see it on our faces.



The next few photos were taken in the morning while we were at Knossos, the ancient Minoan city where cicades provided a constant if not exactly melodic soundtrack.













































 








































We strolled through a shopping district after lunch, and Rollie took my photo by a meat market. Is he trying to tell me something?









The Veneitan Fort to guard the harbor.











Eternal Greek beauty!








The last picture is of Rollie at the bayfront taverna where we enjoyed some ouzo and Mythos beer. That's the sea behind him.



Thursday, September 6, 2007

More photos from Crete: July, 2007

My brother-in-law Rollie posted some photos online of our time in Crete, including these.

Since I didn't have many pictures of daughter Gina, Rollie and me enjoying our fantastic day together in Crete, I concentrated on those rather than scenery shots.

The picture above shows Rollie and I standing between our waiter and cook at the gyros place where we had lunch.




That lunch was a highlight of the cruise, and I think you can see it on our faces.


The next few photos were taken in the morning while we were at Knossos, the ancient Minoan city where cicades provided a constant if not exactly melodic soundtrack.








































































































Wes at Meat Market











Venetian Fort to guard the harbor


Greek Beauty Personified?


















Rollie enjoying Mythos at a seaside taverna